Posted by Jamie McGuire
on February 23, 2026
This is one of the most common questions I get and also one of the most misunderstood topics in skincare.
Derma rolling and microneedling are often lumped together as the same thing, but they are different treatments with very different risk profiles, costs, and long-term outcomes.
One is something I’ve personally done consistently for over 10 years and built into my at-home routine using my professional dermaroller.
The other? I’ve done once and wouldn’t pay for.
Let’s get in to it.
No.01: What They Have in Common
Both derma rolling and microneedling work by creating micro-channels in the skin. These tiny channels:
- Can signal collagen production
- Improve skin texture over time
- Increase absorption of topical products
That’s where the similarities end.
Why I Recommend Derma Rolling (Especially for At-Home Use):
1. It’s Affordable and Sustainable
Derma rolling is something you can do regularly without spending hundreds of dollars per session. Consistency matters far more than intensity when it comes to skin transformation.
Skin doesn’t respond to one aggressive treatment, it responds to repeated, controlled stimulation over time. That's exactly why I designed my dermaroller.
2. You Can Do It More Often (Cumulative Benefits)
Because derma rolling works at controlled depths, it can be done more frequently, which is where the change happens.
Instead of shocking your skin once every few months, you’re gently supporting regeneration again and again. Think of it like getting a pilates body -vs- running marathons once a year. It's those micro-habits that give you your dream body (and skin).
This is how I personally approach skin health with my entire skincare routine.
3. No Toxic Numbing Cream
Most in-office microneedling treatments use topical numbing cream, which is highly toxic and disruptive to the skin barrier and microbiome.
Derma rolling doesn’t require numbing because it’s not meant to be traumatic to the skin and why I created a .25mm roller to be gentle, yet effective.
4. No Downtime, No Inflammation Cycle
No redness for days.
No peeling.
No “trust the process” damage phase.
Derma rolling supports your skin, it doesn’t injure it.
5. You Control the Products Going Into Your Skin
This is HUGE.
With derma rolling, you can choose high-quality, non-toxic, barrier-supportive serums to enhance your results. You’re not relying on whatever a clinic uses post-procedure (and yes, many of them use junk).
That control is a major reason I created my own professional dermaroller - it allows you to enhance your existing skincare routine instead of overriding it.
Why the Type of Roller Matters (A Lot)
Derma rolling got a bad reputation years ago and honestly, I understand why.
Many rollers on the market:
- Are made with stamped discs, not real needles
- Have blunt or irregular shapes
- Drag, pull, or tear the skin instead of cleanly penetrating
That causes:
- Micro-tears
- Inflammation
- Damage over time
Why I Created My Own Roller
My roller features:
- 192 individual needles
- Made from medical-grade stainless steel
- True needles, not discs
This allows the skin to be penetrated precisely, cleanly and safely, without dragging or trauma. When derma rolling is done correctly with the right tool, it should never damage the skin.
Microneedling Is Not “Bad,” But Not for Everyone
I want to be very clear, microneedling isn’t inherently bad. But there are important things you need to understand.
Cost & Frequency
Microneedling is expensive - often $500–$700 per session.
And here’s the truth most people don’t hear:
➡️ One or two treatments will not give you meaningful results.
To see real change, you need to go monthly.
That adds up fast.
I’ve personally had one microneedling treatment ever and it was free. I noticed zero difference. And honestly, if I had paid for it, I would’ve been pissed at the waste of money.
Depth = Risk
In-office microneedling goes deeper. That depth is what:
- Requires numbing cream
- Causes inflammation and downtime
- Introduces real risk
At those depths, you can experience:
- Scratch marks that turn into scars
- Post-procedure cystic acne
- Bacterial responses/infections
- Long-term barrier damage
Not to mention the fact that many clinics prep the skin by wiping rubbing alcohol all over the face, which absolutely wrecks the microbiome and then immediately follow it with an invasive treatment.
That combination alone is a recipe for a damaged barrier and money down the drain.
“But What If I Go to an Amazing Provider?”
If you find a practitioner who:
- Doesn’t use numbing cream
- Doesn’t use rubbing alcohol
- Uses non toxic, professional level products
- Stays conservative with depth
- Is gentle and experienced
That’s great.
But then ask yourself:
Is it worth $500-$700 a treatment?
And is that something you can realistically maintain long-term?
When Microneedling Does Make Sense
There is a place for professional microneedling.
If you have deep, true scarring (not just texture and some fine lines - real scarring), then deeper microneedling performed by a highly qualified professional can be beneficial.
Not at home.
Not with a Groupon.
Not aggressively.
These treatments come with risks and some of those risks are irreversible.
Why Derma Rolling Is My Long-Term Recommendation
Derma rolling:
+ Does not injure the skin
+ Does not disrupt the microbiome
+ Does not require toxic numbing
+ Does not cause downtime
+ Does not carry the same risks
It’s something I’ve personally done for over a decade, consistently, safely, and with results which is exactly why I created my own roller.
This isn’t about doing something because an influencer did it once.
It’s about:
✔ Consistency
✔ Safety
✔ Control
✔ Long-term skin health
Last notes:
Microneedling has its place for specific cases, with the right provider, at the right depth.
But for most people who want:
+ Healthier skin
+ Better product absorption
+ Long-term results without risk
Derma rolling is the smarter, safer, more sustainable choice.
And it’s something you can confidently make part of your at-home routine. Not something you need to keep paying for or risking your skin over. It's exactly why I continue to recommend my dermaroller as a foundational part of long-term skin care.
xo,
Jamie